Question: We have a 1993 Cappuccino which we have just had rolling road tuned. A stainless steel exhaust and induction kit are fitted and power was measured at 68 bhp. ( Still feels like a bat out of hell ). My question is what would you recommend as the next stage of tuning to increase the power whilst still maintaining driveability. Are there any “ stage tuning packages for example” and some idea of cost would be appreciated
Answer:
Espresso engine in a light Cappuccino… please!
Once you’ve got a taste for the Cappuccino, the 1st thing you feel is: I wonder how good it will be if it’s was bit stronger?? And there you go! This is when you start searching how you can get this little engine, or another engine for that matter, a little more boost!!!
We have been working on this sole subject for the last 8 years. For us to, it started the same way: we tried the little Kei car and got the feel for the kart like driving. And then we tested different engines and setting. After many experiences, here’s the results:
But before we start explaining what work and what doesn’t, here’s a bit our philosophy about the subject; first of all we like Suzuki products and engines. Suzuki always has been best known for their small but very efficient engine. And they still make the most powerful/light engine there is and therefore prefer their engines to anything else. You simply think about the Hayabusa engine and you get the drift of what I’m saying. Furthermore we like to keep our Cappuccino as homogeny as possible. So you won’t see us try to install a Toyota or Mazda engine in a Cappuccino. It’s simply not its place. For at least 2 good reasons.
The first reason is the weight. Tuning a Cappuccino also mean to make sure that the perfect balance 50/50 front/rear is respected. One of the numerous good things about the Cappuccino is its handling. It’s in no circumstances that we would be messing with that. We’re not here to destroy what’s already great in a Cappuccino but to enhance it.
The second reason is the overall appearance of the Cappuccino. When someone opens the bonnet, the last comment we want to hear is: “nice kit car. What donor engine is that?” We want our car to look like they were out of the manufacture. That everything it’s there meant to be there and that you wouldn’t have it any other way.
For us, for now, there are only 3 choices of engines that follow those criteria to perfection: The F6A, the K6A or the V8 Hayabusa engine.
We have a wide range of products that can be added to your Cappuccino. But there is a right way and a wrong way to upgrade a car. Ideally you want to start from bottom up:
First thing you need to do is to make sure that your Cappuccino is solid enough, that he never had a serious accident: structurally sound.
The rust is not much of a problem as we can get all the seals at a reasonable price.
Than you want to start with the engine. Many people that I know who has try to upgrade their Cappuccino has blown their engine. That’s why you should first take care in solidifying the engine.
We have devised some easy to follow stages to upgrade and unleash the power of your Cappuccino.
Like all Grand Prix Formula 1 teams, Cappuccino SPORT has been busy developing its very own series of radical racing cars. We, not only worked on a Hayabusa engine for the Cappuccino, we also been working very hard on the conventional 12 valve/ 3 cylinder 657cc engine. Basically, our aim was to create the fasted, most reliable 3 cylinders under 700cc engine.
What we wanted to do was to offer Cappuccino owners some reliable options to increase the performance for their cars. Before us, it was left to some amateurs here and there to try a few things. Unfortunately, all of them had their engine blowing off a few times in the process. Including my self! When that happens, it's expensive and it doesn't leave you with much money to really research what can be done to the engine.
What most of us was doing was to add more powerful parts to the engine, and wishing for the best. The mistake we were doing was to under spend effort and money on the actual engine. Reliability is what's first needed when you're working on a 3 cylinder. Than, when you engine is better, you can start building on bigger Turbo, NOS kit and so on.
Then I had stage 2 done on my Cappuccino! WOW! What a difference! From 84 bhp I got to 141 bhp. That's what I call fast! And it's just a start. To be fair, we also increased to turbo to 1.2 bar. The red line is 1 bar. But still, it is a big difference and it shows how much we can achieve if you start at the right place with the right knowledge. So we have started to develop a few of the engine ready to be swap in your Cappuccino.
And here's the result we can offer you, so far . . .
Below is the description of the work that can be done on the original Cappuccino 3 cylinders 657cc. But before you start choosing, there are a few things that you need to know:
You will be saving between £500 by stages by combining stages together.
Prices on this page are approximative. Please ask for a quote
All stages are cumulative. In other words, you can’t take stage 2 with stage 4 only. You have to go from stage to stage.
The main weakness of your engine is heat. Don’t consider any work before this problem is care for.
Stage 1: Introduction to power!
This stage is pretty much all you can add to enhance your engine without the risk of blowing it up. So, if your finance can’t stretch to stage 2, it is a nice little start. Each item will add some BHP to your Cappuccino.
Induction Kit (Air Fannel Cleaner EA11R - £199.94) – Better Air intake to your turbo.
Complete Stainless Steel Exhaust Sports' System (£399)– durability, better outflow and sound.
Ultra Light Front Strut Bar (£149) – For more stability to the front of the car.
NGK IRIMAC #9 each Spark plugs (£12 each)- Better firing and starts.
NB: Get your Cappuccino to 72 BHP approx Price: Varied
Stage 2: Performance and reliability!
This stage is much more to give you reliability than performance. To be done before any further engine performance improvement. It also resolves the down power the original engine has.
Remove engine, strip and inspect crank run out, end float, etc.
Flaws detect crankshaft con rods, stress fractures and signs of weakness.
Crack detects cylinder head.
Bore block to pistons 698cc.
Chemically clean all parts.
Full balance.
Gasflow head to fast road spec.
Lighten fly wheel from 8.1kg to 5.1kg and floor detect.
A) Balancing ultimately requires new clutch to be used as the units are all balanced as one. i.e., front pulley, crankshaft, conrods, fly wheel, clutch cover. Conrods weights are also matched.
Cylinder head modifications.
A) After crack detecting, improve water coolant galleries around the combustion chamber, modifying metal head gasket to match. Blank E.G.R bypass, which runs next to number 3 cylinder preventing heat from transferring from hot exhaust gases to coolant. Also, preventing engine reburning exhaust gases. Overhaul cylinder head decoke and reseat valves.
Shot blast cam carriers and sump, repaint in customers requested colors.
A) Paint color, etch primer and lacquer.
B) Engine block is in matt black unless customer states otherwise.
Re-assemble engine using new crankshaft bearings, big end bearings, gaskets, seals, metal head gasket.
A) Genuine parts are used with the exception of performance parts. Also varies on extent of engine modification.
B) All external bolts are replaced using stainless steal capheads, washers etc.
C) 12.9 tensile strength bolts are used externally where required.
D) Thermostat is removed and replaced with a flow reducer.
E) Catalytic is removed by removing the core in the down pipe.
F) Also optional down pipe available.
Camshaft re-profiled.
A) Adjustable camshaft pulley - 4.5 hours.
B) Gives an extra 10BHP.
OPTIONS – Recommended options for stage 2
Electric Temp. Gauge – Keep track of your water temperature.
Crankshaft: a. Standard shotpeaned - £100 b. Standard nightrided - £100 c. Standard knife edging - £400 d. Standard impact finished - £70 OR New crankshaft billet £1000
Conrods. a. Standard Rods shotpeaned and impact finished with ARP bolts b. OR Steal billet H section rods with phosphorus bronze small ends - £220 each (need 3) c. OR Titanium H section rods - £400 ea. (need 3)
Cylinder Head. a. Ported and flowed head, standard valves matched inlet manifold b. Ported and flowed head, oversized valves matched manifold, oversized waterways and gasket
Suzuki Sport F100 Turbo Kit ( Turbo, ECU, Big Injectors & Spark Plugs) a. Price £1,154.34 b. Will bring your Cappuccino to about 140 BHP.
Nitrous. a. From here your engine will be solid enough to take the extra pressure. b. Give from 20 to 70 bhp extra.
NB: Get your Cappuccino to 95 BHP approx Price: £2900 Including all parts and labour
Stage 3
Same as above but with additional work listed here:
Lighten flywheel to race spec.
Garrett T2 turbo with 360 degrees thrust bearing.
Exhaust manifold made to race spec.
Gasflow head to fast road spec.
Re-profile cams to fast road spec.
NB: Give about 160 BHP Price: £1200
Stage 4
Same as above but with additional work listed here:
Gasflow head to full race spec with larger exhaust valves.
Re-profile cams to rally spec.
Super ultra-light weight flywheel.
Turbo modified to hybrid spec- T23 Cappuccino Sport spec.
Oil squirters in block.
NB: Give Over 200 BHP Price: £1900
Stage 5
Same as above but with additional work listed here:
Roller bearing turbo.
Modify cams to solid lift profile.
Modify followers for solid lift cams.
Gasflow head to full race spec with larger inlet and exhaust valves.
7 Oct 2008
